Tim Robertson comments on climbing the Moench:
What’s special about climbing the Moench? Why would anyone want to climb it?
The Moench has such an incredible drop off the North face. You can climb it in a day from Interlaken, you get up to 4100m and the valley floor is 1000m below you on the northern side.
The exposure you get for a very short climb is quite unusual
it can be climbed generally most of the summer, it has been climbed in most conditions
Any particular challenges?
It has a steep snow arête for the last 500m of distance and 100m of height gain. The arête is really narrow and exposed.
It is a challenge for people’s composure.
What is your approach to the mountain?
I like to guide it 1 to 1, there is a much bigger safety margin. I have guided at 1 to 2 with very experienced clients and they have not enjoyed it. Although it may be more expensive, the client has a much better experience on this mountain when guided one-to-one.
What are the requirements for the clients?
Being focused and composed in exposed locations. The last arête is really exposed, that’s why Moench is such a classic climb. It helps a lot though if the guiding is 1:1
A Moench ascent can be combined really well with a two-day trip including the Jungfrau.
if you are not from Europe, it’s very unusual to be able to do a 4000m peak in a day, on a climb that is not simply hiking up snow. It has a good mixture.
Climbers need to be acclimatised or they will feel the altitude.